![]() ![]() I'll be changing it when I gets back on the road, but when our out Bush, and your battery is shot, and your leads are right at the bottom of the draws, Its a good option. My battery currently is shot, so starting of my second. Why is it a sales pitch? The units can handle it so why not have to option? Why wouldn't there be close to that if charging a flat battery on an older car with no fancy gizmos, just an isolator? Using 70mm2 between the pod batteries & the under bonnet cranker in the Patrol allowed for winching or jump starting at the flick of a switch without needing to access the pod bank which would be a hassle. Given the positioning of the battery banks relative to each other a set of jumper leads would have been a real pain & carried higher risk of shorting against the vehicle body. Only time I have ever joined the batteries together using the manual override of the SBI in the bus was when we had a flat starter resulting from the alternator karking it, but I was glad I had the heavy cable on that occasion. A similar but 24v setup in my bus also has 35mm2 (but this utilises a SBI24D (two way) & the heavier gauge helps minimise voltage drop for the solar input. The dual battery setup I removed from my vehicle to Telstra standards used 35mm2. I guess the point is to avoid the need for jump starts in the first place. That said Westy’s comment about having a heavy gauge cable between starter & aux is also reasonable, especially if the aux is not convenient to get at with jumper cables & essential if there is the possibility of using the override for jump starts. Yendor’s post got me thinking, & I think he’s right about good jumper leads being a more economic & flexible investment than heavy cables between the batteries. more of an issue with solar where every volt counts, but good practice for any set up. However for a long term installation attention needs to be paid to sealing the ends of the cable, as the finer strands can tend to ‘wick’ moisture along the cable, eventually resulting in oxidation & resistance within the cable. It is a relatively cost effective solution & having fine strands of copper it is also relatively flexible. I have used welding cable to carry the output from roof mounted solar panels on our bus. You would be better off investing the money is a good set of jumper leads then battery cables linking your isolator to your second battery. If you need to use it once that's an error, if you need to use it more often there's something wrong with your setup. The override function is just a sales pitch. There is no way on earth you would have 90-110A running through the dual battery isolator when charging from the alternator. Over kill? sure, but cheap and it's one thing I know will work, and work safely. You need to atleast match the size that goes to your starter motor. If you intend On using the second battery as a back up starter the normal 6mm twin core ain't going to cut the mustard. The red arc isolator is 200A I think, but can handle 500 for 5 seconds (from memory) So most electrical stuff like these have a Max burst for X seconds. Cranking a diesel can reach 4 times that. You gotta remember change is usually 90-110A, depending on size of alternator. If you are using that switch you need to use much thicker cable and bigger fuses. I did not put the switch in mine, if I ever have to start off the 2nd battery I have got jumper leads in the car. Considering that when you are driving the solenoid is connected for hours at a time I would not worry about it. The switch is just an override, it connects the batteries together regardless of voltage. ![]()
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